Zhenghe County 政和县, the birthplace of white tea, is located in the northern part of Fujian Province, bordering southern Zhejiang. It falls within a warm and humid subtropical monsoon climate zone. Tea gardens are mostly distributed in the hilly areas of the east, at altitudes ranging from 400 to 1000 meters, characterized by competing peaks and crisscrossing streams. Although inconvenient transportation has constrained its development, it has also preserved its excellent ecological environment. "High mountains and misty clouds produce good tea," and it is here that Zhenghe white tea is nurtured, nourished by the maritime monsoon and the fertile soil of the Jiufeng Mountains, brewing a unique "mountain and sea charm."
According to legend, the name Zhenghe originated when Emperor Huizong of the Song Dynasty was greatly pleased after drinking the local tea and bestowed his reign title upon the area. According to "Fujian Zhenghe Tea" written by Chen Yuan in 1943, the local Gongfu black tea was exported to the United States and Russia, Silver Needle to Germany, and White Peony and Souchong black tea were also renowned. The annual output value of tea once reached one million yuan, becoming one of the pillar economies of Zhenghe. A local saying in Zhenghe, "When marrying off a daughter, one does not seek a family of officials, but only inquires about their tea and Silver Needle," still circulates today. In recent years, Fuding white tea has risen to prominence. Although Zhenghe white tea has also seen an upturn, its reputation has been slightly overshadowed due to inconvenient transportation and conservative processing methods. However, this has also allowed it to retain more of its original ecological characteristics, with the tea preserving its authentic, original flavor.
This 2017 Yeyun (野韵, Wild Charm) Wild Shou Mei originates from an abandoned tea garden in "Area 25," a core production area in Zhenghe County, at an altitude exceeding 1000 meters. This place has been deserted for many years, and even local people are unclear about its origins, only saying it has been "abandoned for decades." As an authentic Fu'an Dabai 福安大白varietal, its tea polyphenol content is higher than that of Fuding Dabai and Dahao, and its polyphenol oxidase activity is stronger, making sun-drying and withering more challenging. The rainy season in Zhenghe overlaps with the tea season, so local white tea mostly undergoes indoor withering, with tea leaves spread out in well-ventilated traditional structures such as plank houses or covered bridges. This Wild Shou Mei employs a complex withering process, striving for a superior cup of tea through meticulous craftsmanship and outstanding quality.
Since its production in 2017, this tea has been aged in a wooden, dry warehouse for five years, achieving a sublime transformation through high-quality aging. The storage environment was strictly controlled, with year-round dehumidification employed unsparingly, solely for the authenticity of dry storage. The dry tea leaves are uniform and well-rounded, with a greyish-green color tinged with red, and are exceptionally clean. The tea liquor is a bright, honey-yellow, clear, and translucent. Its taste is mellow, sweet, and smooth, with a saliva-inducing quality, as refreshing as a mountain spring. The aroma is pure, featuring notes of licorice, jujube, woodiness, sweet floral scents, and a faint hint of winter jujube; the fragrance is rich and lasting. The flavor is full-bodied, sweet, and harmonious, possessing the "mountain field character" and "wild charm." The tea is substantial, with rich layers, is remarkably durable through multiple infusions, and has a stable inner quality. It is not picky about brewing methods: a strong brew ismellow and thick, while a lighter brew is clear and sweet. Even if steeped for an extended period, it does not become bitter or astringent. It can be brewed strong or light, enjoyed according to one's preference.